Introduction

This book was not planned, but appeared in an unpredictable way out of my long time interest in flowing water and kayaking. For as long as I can remember, and certainly for my entire career as a whitewater kayaker, I’ve been drawn to those aspects of life that offered the greatest scope for change. I like adaptation and I like to be confronted with my limits, because only then is it possible to realize what holds me back and what I might be capable of. Kayaking is a sport ready-made to show those limits and demand change.

I began writing essays for myself over 20 years ago as a way to think through the experiences I had while kayaking. Flowing water is complex, and the closer I looked, the more lessons I learned. They ranged from the most immediate life and death disasters, to subtleties that defied description and challenged my understanding. Some ideas I’ve mulled over for many years, and I have thousands of pages of notes and hundreds of essays, articles, and ponderings at different stages of development. That number has only increased with time. The essays in this volume are just a few that I’ve put into final form – if there ever is such a thing as final.

I chose the word “philosophy” because every essay here is about our values and beliefs and expresses the ways in which the river becomes an intimate and important part of our lives. It is a rough-hewn but hopefully coherent set of themes about adventure sports, because all of them in their own ways confront us with the critical problem of how a weak, awkward human is able to fit into the natural world, and live with the sharp edges and awe-inspiring powers that pulse there. It doesn’t matter whether one is dealing with water or air, snow or rock, in caves or high above the ground; our adventure sports form the modern Dao – they are ways of existing and expanding our awareness into the midst of the powers that shaped this astonishing planet.

The belief that prompts much of what I do is simple. It might be stated this way: all outward journeys should also be inward journeys. Without this, there is little personal change, still less meaning, and there certainly can be no philosophy. The outward journey is nothing without an equivalent journey within oneself; otherwise, we travel to the ends of the earth and yet stay exactly the same. I want something more than that.

In kayaking, as in other adventure sports, endless travel is trumpeted, striving for the highest, hardest, most stunning new descents, ascents, or feats. While I’ve done my share of this, I always had a nagging feeling as I watched the endless treadmill some of my friends and acquaintances walked, whether they were kayakers, climbers, extreme skiers, paragliders, or BASE jumpers. Trip after trip, gig after gig, video after video their travels across the globe played out, and yet some of them never seemed to change as people. They had an amazing wealth of experience and astonishing skills, and yet seemingly a poverty of making use of these things. The action of their sports seemed to function as an end in itself, almost as an escape rather than as a vehicle for something greater.

I don’t mean to criticize these people, because I share many attitudes with them. Unquestionably, all are bright, engaging, skilled, and interesting. Many are my good friends. I only wish to say that personally I’m not interested in a path solely of action, without deeper reflection. Balanced, graceful action in the middle of chaos is a beautiful thing, enticing and compelling. You can marvel at it, like a miracle where the laws of entropy and chance have been repealed and astonishing feats somehow become possible. It is so compelling that it can uproot people and motivate them to a lifetime of paddling rivers or climbing mountains. This is a great experience, but not as an end in itself. Action is in many ways only the surface, and the most compelling truths do not lie on the surface of things.

Kayaking has left me with an undeniable thought: that adventure sports allow us to take part in the very powers that sculpted and shaped the world around us. That is a profound realization. It allows us a glimpse of the timelessness, change, and the infinite power of nature. When we move down a river, we are literally a part of the flow that scours the mountains and creates the vast landscape of continents. We can learn skills that allow us to join in the wordless wisdom of nature, but it is up to us to understand it, first to survive and then to respect and appreciate. The forces stir the beginner’s joy in a simple surf, and sweep to a deep humility in the face of a massive, powerful rapid.

Because of where we go, all the adventure sports readily evolve into much more than sports. They aren’t like baseball, soccer, or football. They don’t have man-made rules. The rules are those of God and Nature, and of how the world is created. They aren’t arbitrary or tweaked to make things fit humans, like the dimensions of the batter’s box or the height of a basketball rim. They are life and death. They are how long you can hold your breath, how well you can hold your angle when the current slams on top of you, and how surely you can direct your path up or down a mountain, or through a raging rapid. These are elemental things, and no human law will ever have their power. They create a purity that draws certain kinds of people and not others. You have to be willing to stretch, to be thrown out of your comfort zone and adapt. It is not competition that is the draw, because there is no other team. The river or mountain is not your opponent. You do not fight it, even if the old stereotypes are of “conquering” Everest. So far as I can tell, Everest will still be there long after everybody who ever climbed it is dead. Tectonic movements will make it higher over the next ten million years, glaciers will tear away at its massive flanks and hurricane force winds will sweep its slopes every year, but humans will be no more. And the same simple thing is true of the rivers we run today and for the foreseeable future. There will be no sign of our passing, and no memory of our feats.

I don’t believe in defining such places in terms of humans’ games and limits. The more important view is that we attempt to learn to live within the greater powers and beauties of nature, and find wisdom there, truths about ourselves and our place in a larger world. I prefer looking at mountains and rivers and feeling their grandeur, rather than thinking in terms of racing to the top of a peak or down a rapid. The latter defines nature in human terms, the former confronts us with our human limitations in the face of much larger powers. Both can tell us something of what we are, but I find the greater depths lie in confronting ourselves with our weaknesses than in focusing on our supposed strengths. It is a simple truth that what we consider our greatest strengths are precisely our greatest weaknesses.

Rivers are just water, rocks and gravity, yet they produce the most astonishing beauty with a special kind of magic and infinite challenge. These create our sport and open the path to much more, including the path to changing ourselves. Stepping onto this path transforms the adventure sports into a very different venture. In particular, they become martial arts, where we live guided by a philosophy of both adventure and inner change instead of mere action. As the single greatest key: when ego is fed, vision is lost. When ego is cut through, insight is gained.

I’ve spent the last 25 years journeying through a world far more powerful than me, and this book is a small offering that describes a few things I’ve found along that path. Kayaking whitewater has deeply changed the way I look at the world, the skills I have, my judgment and perspective. The following essays deal with confronting limits and knowing ourselves, with risk, where fear comes from and how it can be overcome, with craziness, death and challenge, the real measure of skill, being alone, the bonds between partners, and much more. I have done my best to set down a few ideas, and I hope others will do more. For all the efforts we collectively have put into our adventures, so far we have very little philosophy to show for it. Most of what is there is piecemeal franticness, wry humor, tales of prowess, trashings, and dramatic stories of survival. Again, the focus is on action and not reflection, as if there are no other paths to follow. This is thin gruel and I reject it as an ultimate goal. It’s fun, it’s exciting, but it’s not a goal. I would like to invite everybody to take a hand in developing a philosophy of adventure, starting with the sport and rivers we know so intimately. Living with one of the world’s great powers puts us in a privileged position. We all feel that gift every time we put on a river, but it would be gratifying if we could be like the fabled alchemists of old, and transmute those feelings into a small number of clear truths.

There is much more to be done; I hope readers find a least a few ideas of interest and take them farther in ways I have not envisioned. When we start building instead of treating our sports like the beautiful anarchies they are, then perhaps we will see deeper into the world around us and especially, deeper into the worlds within us.


Acknowledgements:

Everybody I’ve ever been with on the river has contributed to this book and these ideas in some way. The full list would be very long, but I’d like to thank a few people in particular for prodding me over the years and for many valuable experiences: Rob Lesser, Bob McDougall, John Wasson, Charlie Munsey, Gerry Moffatt, Scott Lindgren, Monty Moravec, Risa Shimoda, Tommy Hilleke, Erik Boomer, John Salisbury, Ed Ward, Will Gadd, Brennan Guth, Corran Addison, Dave Manby, and Peter Knowles. Markus Schmid, Lukas Bluecher, Oli Grau, and Olaf Obsommer also have been inspirations.

Mike Kord has been a wonderful editor, sharp, insight-ful, and easy to work with. Ambrose Tuscano and Melissa Newell helped greatly with suggestions and discussions on many of the essays. Special thanks go to my close friend Jim Snyder, who for the past 15 years has served as a reliable and perceptive sounding board for many a crazy thought. Lastly, my wife Robin and our children have given me perspectives that run through every single idea here.

I am sincerely indebted to all these people.

Doug Ammons
Missoula, Montana.
February 2009